Quote:
Originally Posted by parmas
Although the control knobs are nice and simple I really don't like them at all.
From experience, I learnt to better adjust a basemap accordingly instead.
Could you share with us what engine/head/turbo etc.. specs you have. Also ignition timing values/ spark plugs over stock and ignition system is a good reference aswell?
Mine was an Forged 1.5L 8.5:1 compression / complete stock head / GT2560R @ 22psi 6800-7200rpm.
Ignition system is haltech truck coils x 4 with high tensions. Stock heatrange worked fine with 16psi while increase heat range by 1 with 22psi.
Ignition timing was high 40Degrees on low boost tapering low 40s on high boost.
AFR was found to be 13.5-14 running WM40.
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Completely agree on hard coding everything in the tune file itself and running sans knobs. You get finer control and more options to twiddle in the tune. I plan to get it all hard coded anyway, whether I send it to my tuner or do it myself. Either way, twiddling the knobs is kind of fun to get it in the ball bark and then go with the tune file and logging from there.
In my case, this is a rock crawling jeep wrangler that goes offroad. I carry camping gear and some spare parts in case I break it out in the middle of nowhere. If I shove a spare axle through the water tank while navigating the granite rock garden then I can just back the timing out easily. Reflashing the tune file takes more time.
The Diablosport CMR software that you would use in conjunction with the device is cost prohibitive for the individual at ~$2,500 USD. Not sure how many cars you get to tune with that, though.
The other option I have is the HP Tuners software and interface. That is more reasonable @~$850 or so for the "pro" version that can take 4 analog inputs.
The engine:
3.6L VVT "Pentastar" as found in a 2013 Jeep wrangler
Compression 10:1
This motor itself is all stock and pretty well built from the factory. For example, I believe that it has forged internals.
Stock HP for this motor in the jeep is 285bhp on 86 octane. Other models are rated at about 20bhp more from software tuning (and I think a 91 octane requirement).
The ignition system is stock but it has the individual coil packs above each spark plug like my E46 BMW. Plugs are also the stock type and range.
Supercharger: Eaton 1320 TVS with liquid to air intercooler mounted under the blower and between the heads. The blower is rated at 8psi but I am logging over 9psi peak and with the WMI flicked on, I just barely crested 10psi - like 10.2 psi. I also opened up the intake because the stock intake was a little restrictive with the blower trying to pull through it. It took opening the intake to get it over 9psi.
I had not been logging base spark and actual spark until my most recent log because I was just tuning based on the amount of knock retard that I was seeing.
At WOT and as boost and RPM are building, I am seeing Base Spark between 18 and 19 degrees. Actual Spark is ranging between 23.5 and 26 degrees.