Flr Power, sorry for any sand kicking on my part. I was and still am not convinced that I am in a danger zone with my street drive Jeep.
Hopefully I am correctly jetted since I followed the Aquamist guidance.
And thanks for asking more about my system.
I am running a single Aquamist 1.2mm jet with 50/50. My target is more like 17% of fuel versus a full 20% and I have the extra 0.4mm-b jet to get me there.
I sized more based on injectors, which are GM/AC Delco injectors rated at 54 lbs per hour. I converted that 567cc/min and sized my 6 cyl. based on that.
Sizing based on HP, I target 1.375 to 1.5 times HP and came up with the same jet sizes. This kit is claimed by the vendor to put out 317rwhp, which is on par with other similar bolt on superchargers for this engine. It is also widely believed that Jeep Wranglers get a 33% drivetrain loss and this is also perpetuated by one of the more popular Jeep tuners out there which has dynoed may stock and FI jeeps.
I do appreciate any feedback on the sizing. Again, I use 1.2mm for 50/50 and a 0.9mm for pure water. I also have a 1.0mm for using with a mix somewhere in between that.
What do you make of the 11 year old posts in this thread? Numbers 54 through 57? It was a good read. Not sure if tuning methods have changed much since those posts. Comments?
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum2/vbu...p?t=436&page=6
In the above thread, it is mentioned that knock sensors may not even be working effectively if even at all at higher RPMs. In my case, the Jeep won't be going past ~5,700 RPM very often anyway when I am not pulling logs.
Edit: Also, FWIW, I did notice what I thought was increasing amounts of HP (butt dyno) until about 7 degrees of advance. In light of all this conversation, I backed off my advance by a degree back to 7 since I could not really feel any difference going past that point. No substitute for a real dyno pull.
Also the more I read about WI/WMI, the more that I find I do NOT know.