I have installed a turbo on a Jeep Cherokee 4.0 liter w/ an automatic with similar goals (4-5psi) It too had a Map sensor but it also had no air flow meter. At the time I didnt own a wideband O2 sensor so I never knew if it was too lean or not but I ran it for 4 days straight in the dunes at very high loads (Hill climbs), so I used an EGT instead, and kept a very close eye on that. Not saying thats a good idea just what I did.
The whole project was very short lived but it seemed to run out of steam/power at about 4200 rpms (turbo was to small but had no lag and this was what I was after) redline was 5k so I just let off the throttle and it shiffted early got back into it and everything seemed fine. It went from a slow big Jeep with 33 inch tires to a jeep that could do burnouts on dry pavement with 33 inch tires. We drove around the dunes for 3 hours before we ever realized we forgot to put it in 4 wheel drive.
I would say If you can borrow a Wideband O2 sensor from someone (to see what it does) and you have some way to add more fuel (SAFCII, HKS AIC, or maybe even a rising rate fuel pressure regulator something similar) but you definately need more (and more accurate fuel distribution) fuel than a few crude misting nozzles and an RV pump can generate. Study up on rising rate fuel pressure regulators and what they can do for you, also you will surely need a better fuel pump look for walbro pumps they are great quality for the money. not saying it will work for sure but at only 3-5 psi it might get you close. Now I would never turbo charge a (previously) non turbo charged car without a wideband. If you are at all serious about turbocharging this or any other car in the future this is the one tool you cant do without.
As for h2o/meth injection alone as the suplimental fuel, this route will never get you there but it can help should you generate a lot of heat one day.
|