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#31
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Gauge button on always.
Read the following, ignition off: TP4, TP5, TP7, TP8, TP10, TP11, TP15, TP16, TP17, TP18, TP20, TP23, TP30 Read the following, ignition on, pre-crank: TP4, TP5, TP7, TP8, TP10, TP11, TP15, TP16, TP17, TP18, TP20, TP23, TP30 (same as above) Read the following, engine running: TP4, TP5, TP7, TP8, TP10, TP11, TP15, TP16, TP17, TP18, TP20, TP23, TP30 (same as above)
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Richard L aquamist technical support |
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#32
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Th One more picture of the whole board. The left side is missing.
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Richard L aquamist technical support |
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#33
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Ok Richard thanks for your support, will test them in the next couple days and update this thread ...
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#34
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OK. I look forward to the readings.
Can you take a hi-res, close up picture of the plugs of both gauge cable. Long and short. Make sure they are in focus.
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Richard L aquamist technical support |
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#35
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Hi Richard, results are in, let me know what you think
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#36
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Original cable end
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#37
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Extended, other end is a mirror just like the original, both behave the same ..
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#38
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One thing stood out on the tests, the red wire of the molex is not correct, Check this wire. Should be A8 of the DME.
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Richard L aquamist technical support |
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#39
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Quote:
I will check and adjust that wire, which test point to check after and what should the reading be? Last edited by P997.tt; 16-06-2015 at 10:55 AM. |
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#40
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Quote:
Still, the water level light remains, but I noticed this: When the A connector of the car's ecu is disconnected the water level light goes away, but the gauge background and S led is still working, as soon as I plug in the A connector /harness the light comes back on again ... |
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