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Old 03-07-2013, 11:34 PM
naviuk naviuk is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: South Africa
Posts: 21
Default Re: Help with HFS-3 and MPS Trigger

Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard L View Post
1. If you are not going to reach 95% ever, then it is better to pre-amplifier the idc. Alternatively, you can leave it at 1:1 and use the gain trimmer to rescale the idc after the trigger point.

2. It is always better to measure the rate manually with the intended jest/jets for one minute. (use the SYS jumper)

3. ---

4. The red wire just tell the turns the entire system on. It is better to use a switched 12V rather the injector (+) as it can some time be very noisy and spiky. We have some Subaru drawings on this forum, mainly USDM but can be similar. Check this out. It is important this 12V should only be active at the "pre-crank" and "run" key position.

The injector (+) is often not found at the ECU. But we have picked a suitable pin at the ECU on the wiring drawings here.

Do you have a v11 or v12 gauge? (marking at the back of the gauge).
Hey Richard

Cool, ok i finally have got some more answers. spent alot of tonight going through wiring and making sure all is as it should be.

The injectors were def wired correctly, although the + was coming from the injector +, i moved this to the switched 12v that is used to power the unit. this only see's 12v at pre-crank and running. The "-" also know as pulse wire, is def in the right place and i tested and confirmed by tracing the other injector wires... one things for sure, i'm learning how these things are wired haha

With the change in wiring i'm not seeing any difference in the gauge, i didnt really expect to see one, but just making note,

I took a video of the testing i did with the unit... The water level light coming on happens when i do the test aswell. so this helped in not having to drive around trying to get a video, i will post it as soon as it has uploaded to "youtube" Basically i get the same results, system triggers and comes online, w.injection light comes on, during that the B comes on the goes away and the water level light comes on and stays on.

YouTube link -->> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjPZZfGl15c
Sorry about the volume, but you will get what i mean by the lights.

What does the "B" on the gauge mean? it flashes for a second of so and then is gone. i'm concerned that something is still not right.

i have attached a picture of what i found on the back, from my understanding i need to break the x1.0 link and get someone to solder the x1.5 link to make this the new amplifier for IDC, this should hopefully increase the flow and i'll see some bars on the graph when i test or drive. is this the right spot?
I will get this setup today.


i'm not sure which version gauge it is, i can pull it out but it requires alot of stripping, the whole front face comes off, radio and evc come out, aircon vents and then need to remove the whole pod, if we can pick it up off the serial number of the unit that would be great, otherwise i'll strip it out tomorrow.

Thanks again for all your help, def making progress and understand the system alot more now!!

Just as a thought, the I was looking at the system this morning, The FAV could be mounted more securely, it is pretty tight but i'm thinking of ways to do it differently. Would this cause any funny results?

oh btw i looked at the wiring, yes sadly these are all USDM, they differ from ADM and EDM. If it's helpful i can send you what i used and you can make it into a better readable diagram and then post that for 06 ADM
Attached Images
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Last edited by naviuk; 04-07-2013 at 07:09 AM.
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