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#1
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I can never be 100% until it is tested. Please update.
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Richard L aquamist technical support |
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#2
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Hello Richard ...
Ive installed e hfs3 on the car now, i still have the stock turbo setup and want to test that the system works on this setup first, and I have run into a couple of problems: 1- water level light on the gauge is always on, level sensor is correctly installed and all wiring is in order .... could it be a faulty sensor? I cannot begin to purge the system as it wont start the pump even with the sys jumpers. 2- The green idc led is not coming on. I tripple checked the idc connection on the ecu end. The amber thresh led comes on when I blip the throttle, green led never came on. When testing wi th the idc jumper on the circuit board the s+b lights on the gauge do flicker with throttle blipping. So do I have a faulty green led on the circuit board too? Any help is apprecited ... |
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#3
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Quote:
![]() I'm now in the final stages of my setup (Finally) and i want to add the failsafe into the setup, I rely on the water injection to work in order to achieve the timing i have set, so in the event it stops working i need to make sure boost drops quick. Reading through the diagram, i'm alittle confused, With the EVC6 and an external wastegate O = Direct to Top port on EWG I = Direct to Bottom port on EWG with "T" to Turbo/boost pipe With the instructions earlier on, you saying when there is an issue the MAC valve will turn off and air will pass from the Turbo to "O" which goes to the TOP port on the EWG, but if pressure is applied from the TOP this will shut the gate cause boost to be uncontrollable. in the event of a failure, Ideally Zero air must flow to the top port and all must go to the bottom port force the gate to open at spring pressure. Possibly i miss-read the diagram or instructions? Would it be possible to do a diagram from this illustration (Attached) ? I'm assuming you still keep a similar plumbing configuration but add the Mac valve in to bypass pressure in the event of an issue on the Aquamist unit. Thanks! |
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#4
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Ive been troubleshooting with Jeff and learned a few things
1- the green led is definitly not working. Hooked the green wire from the ecu harness to ground and only the amber and red lights came on 2- pump works no problem, hooked direct to battery and runs Wiring and circuit board seems fine but the water level light would not go away even with the sensor disconnected!! What else would trigger that light? Check this short video of the gauge http://youtu.be/jPOcxSPufNE |
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#5
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Please give me the following answers:
1. Which version is the HFS3? 2. serial number. 3. What wiring diagram are you using? 4. Is this a new install 5. Is the water level sensor installed in the correct orientation? Does the lever points upwards 45 degrees when tank is full?
__________________
Richard L aquamist technical support |
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#6
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Quote:
1- V3 2- sn: 102169 3- view attachment 4- yes this is a new install 5- yes it is, while on the matter, the reccomended 22-23mm hole in the manual will not work and the rubber gromet will pull through, a 16-17mm hole will allow the gromet to compress properly into an oring to seal. |
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#7
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Took a closer look at the circuit board, and the plastic base of the dfs jumper is partially broken. Could this cause the issue?
I have not tested the system on the road yet btw. |
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#8
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..........
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#9
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Quote:
Let's deal with the tank level led. (Let me have the results) 1. Unplug the sensor in the trunk.... is the led still on? 2. Still unplugged, now plug the blue harness from the controller.... result? Await your reply.
__________________
Richard L aquamist technical support |
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#10
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I have tried that already while troubleshooting with jeff, no change . The water level light stayed on and the green led on the controller never came on ..
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