Water/Meth on a non-tuneable ECU

[Xisthos]

Hello,

I have an Audi B7 with a 1.8T running on a APR Stage 3+ setup (550 injectors, GT2860RS turbo, etc), FMIC, full exhaust, among other things.

Now I am looking at w/m to bump up my horsepower, but APR locked the ECU and prevents any changes to the timing, fueling, and other factors.

I am running a 93 octane file while the best fuel that is available to me is 97(RON) V-Power.

It is also very hot and humid where I live, about 95-100deg F with a humidity of about 60-70% all the time.

WITHOUT a tuneable ECU, it is worth it for me to still go w/m?

I was thinking that because I am not running 93 octane (97 RON = 92 AKI), and because it is so hot here my ECU probably pulls timing a little, I was guessing that in this case a w/m setup even without bumping timing would benefit me.

Your thoughts would be appreciated :)

[Howerton Engineering]

There are two factors that will allow the ECU to advance timing, IAT and knock. First you have to be able to datalog the timing and IAT out of the OBD port. If you can't, it's a bit harder.

For the knock test, put some 100 octane race gas in the car. Log the timing during some full throttle runs and aggressive timing. Then go back to 93, and do more datalogging.

The IAT is a bit more difficult. Try to drive the car when it's very cold out for your area. Start the car and once the coolant is OK, log the timing. Then get the car hot, possibly in stop and go traffic in heat, then log the timing again. You should get some decent timing numbers to see what the ECU is doing in different heat load/octane scenarios.

Now, if the numbers look good, then see if you have an IAT sensor that the jet can blow past and this will help. If you have a MAF before the turbo with the temp sensor integrated, you will only be able to affect the knock with W/M.

Hope this makes sense. I have seen over 10 degrees of timing change in some cars so even if the ECU is locked you can see large benefits.

[Xisthos]

Hello,

Yes I understand the principles you're driving at, I do have a vag-com program so I should be able to log all of these.

When I do go for w/m, should the HF-6 be the best kit for my situation?

[Howerton Engineering]

The 2,3,or 6 will work for you. The 6 has some nice tuning/setup features, but won't affect the final power number substantially.

[Xisthos]

Is the difference in 6 the safety features? I'd like to go for the one with the best/most failsafes but if there's not much difference then I guess I can go for 2 or 3 :)

[Howerton Engineering]

The 3 and 6 share very similar failsafe systems. The 6 has an adjustable reset timer for the failsafe, and a dedicated circuit to control a MAC valve. But as far as safety to protect the engine, both will do the same.

The 2 has no flow-based failsafe system.

[Xisthos]

Cool, thanks!

[huichox4]

The 3 and 6 share very similar failsafe systems. The 6 has an adjustable reset timer for the failsafe, and a dedicated circuit to control a MAC valve. But as far as safety to protect the engine, both will do the same.

The 2 has no flow-based failsafe system.

I would like to know a bit more about how to wire up and hook up the MAC valve.

I have the hsf-6 kit and MAC valve and still figuring out how the boost lines and MBC are setup in there. This is going in my VW R32 turbo.

Any help is appreciated.

[Howerton Engineering]

There is a schematic on page 19 of the HFS-6 manual. Let me know if you have looked at this and if it helps or not. Typically the MAC valve will be wired to the wastegate harness on the FCM.

[huichox4]

I was wondering more on which port is in and out for boost and MBC. I looked at the manual and see the schematic a few days ago and two of the 3 ports are the only ones used if my mind serves me right