Second issue with power to gauge

[Raceready]

Hi guys. I had issues with the gauge losing power and then it coming back on after 1-2 seconds back in July I believe. I communicated with jeff h. about the issue and after checking connections he had me put some slack in the grey power cord coming from the controller. This remedied the issue and everything worked great for 3-4 months but now the gauge will lose power for just a split second every so often. It'll flicker off and on again almost so quickly that you imagine it happened. However, it's done it a couple of times in a row and will just randomly do it 3-4 times during a 20 minute drive.

Kinda worried as this is the second issue like this that I had with the gauge's power. However, instead of staying off for 2-3 seconds like before, it just flickers off and on. Had all the connections checked before when I had the orignial issue and was told that everything was good. Jiggling the connector at the controller does not cause any disturbance.

Any help would be appreciated. Worries me to death.

thanks

[Richard L]

Can you tell me the version number of the controller (bottom left lebel on the controller board), I presume it is a HFS-6?

Richard

[Raceready]

I will check the controller version today and post back, Richard. It was raining a lot and very wet out the days I noticed the flickering. The past 2 days have been dry and sunny with temps in the mid 40's to mid 50's and I haven't seen it flicker. Could moisture be playing a role in the issue?

[Raceready]

The top of the controller has a label affixed which reads 'HFS3-PWM'. The lower left corner has the letters 'ERL'. On the side of the controller is a label with 'SN 10003'. Those are the only markings I could find. I bought the kit during the HFS-3 group buy early in the year if that gives you more information.

[Raceready]

So, haven't heard back. Should I just ignore this issue until it returns? Would like to have a permanent solution instead od just addressing the symptoms of perhaps an underlying problem.

[Richard L]

I think the problem may have something to do with the moisture in the air condensing onto the circuit board. There are very little heat generated from the box so putting the entire assembly in a plastioc bad may help. If you have WD40, give it a quick squirt (underside of the circuit board).

I have not heard this problem before from problem generated by the controller circuitry. Howerever, I have had report of this problem... mainly due to the RJ connector partially backing out when the latch tap is not full un-sprung. You can gently over stretch the latching tap, not so much so that you break it.

[Raceready]

Ok, thanks for the help. I'll stretch the latch tab a bit. The issue hasn't returned since my first post.

[cammy]

I am now having this exact same issue with the gauge flicking on and off rapidly and the B (boost) light flickering on and off. I have checked the power supply and grounds to the pump and the gauge and both are getting perfect continuity. I have noticed when ever i turn on my air conditioning it triggers the fail safe also and the yellow light turns on for about 2 secs.

So I will try the tab to the connecter and spray some WD40 on the bottom of the board tonight and see if this fixes the issue.

[Richard L]

I wonder if you have connected ther red wire from the grey connector to the wrong side of the fuel injector resistor pack. It should be on the relay side of the resistor rather the fuel injector side.

All USDM evo has a resistor pack in series with the fuel injector. Please check this for me.

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gallery/EVO/resistor-pack.gif

[cammy]

Just thinking... I have removed the resistor pack as I am now running high imp 1000cc injectors. Would this cause a problem in the operation of the WMI system ?

[Richard L]

No, it shouldn't.

Where is the main 12V supply from the power plug goes to at the moment?

Are you using the dimmer control? (purple wire). Also check with the gauge wire is plug in properly, wiggle it a bit (both ends) and see if the gauge flickers?

[cammy]

12v power is coming from the cig lighter as it is no longer used in the car. I jiggled both ends of the gauge and it does not make the gauge flicker at all. I have moved both grounds to two different areas and sanded back the metal to rule out grounding being the problem.

I have a video of what the gauge does if it helps at all ? The video is of me with the car on idle and turning the air-con on and off. However the problem is not restricted to the AC it also does this randomly on the road, not just at stall point.

The video is private, I don't wish to cause any bad rep to Aquamist as you guys are just so damn keen to help out ! :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVLi67bRxvM

[Richard L]

Do you use the dimming control?

I have just watched the video, I have not see this before.

Please try the following:
1. Relocate the red wire (molex) to th ebattery directly.
2. test it for flicker
3. Relocate the red wire of the grey connector to the battery (ensure the engine is running)
4. test for flicker.

If it persist, I will send you a controller, I would love to see what causes it. Thank for the discretion. Nowaday, competitors are so keen to take things out of context for the purpose of negtive marketing .

Richard

[cammy]

I did not wire up the purple dimmer wire. I will do that test ASAP and let you know of the results.

The video made it look worse than it is, the system will actually stay perfect for a few mins and spray correctly on boost but during some gear changes, turning on the AC or just random driving it will do what you saw in the video.

Now that you have seen the video I have taken it down :) Issues with technical equipment occur, be it user or manufacturing fault. I have noticed that people like to point out any faults with Aquamist products, but I guess that comes with the territory when you are the best in the game :cool:

Appreciate the support !

[cammy]

Okay, completed those tests and the results have stayed exactly the same :confused:

Just to confirm, 1 red wire was the actual power for the control unit and the other was the red injector wire on the "ecu" harness ?

I also lightly sprayed the underside of the board with WD-40 incase it was moisture related but it seems as though it is not the problem.

[cammy]

Think I have found the issue, gauge cable appears to be wired incorrectly. Was speaking to Troy ( burnzy ) and he confirmed this.

Always something small...... :) I was almost certain it wasn't the controller as it injects water and the green LED is following IDC pulses.

[Richard L]

Great news.

Just heard from Burnzy, new cables is on the way. The system will continue to work even with the gauge removed. This is a difficult one to diagnose.

[cammy]

Thanks for the support Richard, much appreciated. Aquamist FTW :cool: