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msp1609
29-04-2014, 06:27 PM
Hi

I recently bought a hfs-3 kit off of a local we installed it and it has been working great for 2 months. Just within the past week about 10 seconds after the gauge fully powers up the low water level light comes on, but the tank is full. This is what i've tried so far:

Disconnecting the float sensor: no change

Disconnecting the blue trunk harness : no change.

The green light still flickers on the board so it sees idc.

i tried putting the system into test but no flow bars light up and i don't hear the pump kick on.

I checked the fuse and relay and they both seem good.

The local i bought it from said he sent it to the UK to get programmed so it should be soldered correctly. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Richard L
29-04-2014, 09:34 PM
Where are you located and how old is the system?

If the system is working for two months it should continue to work as electronics does not age.

Tell me the following:
1. Serial number of the kit
2. Locations of the components such as FAV, pump, pump relay assembly, controller.
3. What is the car?

I am happy to take a look of the controller and repair if necessary provided it is no physical damage. We don't charge but you need to pay the return shipping.

msp1609
29-04-2014, 09:53 PM
I'll get the serial tonight. The pump, tanks, fuse, and relay are in the trunk. The fav/wfs is in the engine bay, and there is around 18" of 4mm line between the fav and the nozzles.

The car is a 2009 Mazdaspeed 3.

Also i went back and started un plugging harnesses one at a time then powering on the car and when i unplug the WFS harness the amber water level light doesn't come on. I've also noticed that since the amber light has been on i will randomly get 1-2 bars of false flow. i'm going to go and track the wire back see if possibly got torn open and is shorting out.

Richard L
29-04-2014, 10:08 PM
Good descriptions. I do not know what is happening, it doesn't make much sense at the moment.


A few more questions:
1. What is the colour of the circuit board?
2. When you unplug the wfs harness, does the "S" symbol goes out?
3. False reading could be caused by electrical spike or the FAV is vibrating.

msp1609
29-04-2014, 10:16 PM
The Circuit board is black, and yes this isn't making much sense to me either haha.

When i unplug the WFS harness the "S" goes out and the amber water level light remains unlit with all other harnesses plugged in.

With the WFS harness plugged in the "S" is lit and the amber water level light turns on about 5-15seconds after the gauge has fully lit up. I'm going to go through and just double check all my wiring in the engine bay.

Thanks alot for the fast responses i know it's getting late over there on the other side of the world.

Richard L
29-04-2014, 10:35 PM
There is also a "B" symbol, does it one come at anytime off boost?

msp1609
29-04-2014, 10:39 PM
They stays off. Unless i hit my aquamist threshold point the "B" kicks on for a split second and then goes off.

Richard L
29-04-2014, 11:01 PM
I was hoping to find a reason for the yellow led to come on. Since the "B" has not been coming on, the yellow led is not failsafe related.

So I look towards the water level sensor wires shorted. But this is not possible with the blue harness is unplugged. So I suspect a dry joint has developed. Any signs of minor corrosions on the solder joints?

msp1609
29-04-2014, 11:28 PM
Well i fixed one problem!! now onto another. The issue for the water level light was because somehow the wfs and fav harness ended up ontop of one another and then got sandwhiched inbetween the top of my trans mount and the bottom of my battery box. 2 1" sections on each harness were completely flat. I separated them and that did away with the water level light.

Now for my next problem. When i go wot the system doesn't inject the "S" light just flickers dimmer and dimmer as i climb rpms. I think i just need to replace the fav and wfs harness since a wire or two probably got broken inside each of them. Let me know if you think something else is the problem.

Richard L
29-04-2014, 11:37 PM
I would never have guessed this.

The "S" light should stay solid regardless. Can you check the jumper link are all in their default locations.

msp1609
30-04-2014, 12:11 AM
EVERYTHING IS FIXED!!!!. Turns out when i put everything back together that my wire that taps the IDC signal got ripped out. I re attached that and the system works PERFECT again =D. I cannot tell you how happy this makes me. THANK YOU!!! so much for the help!!

Richard L
30-04-2014, 07:07 AM
It is good to know you have fixed everything. Thanks for the update.