inlet temps with a turbo - danger levels?

[perry190]

Having just returned from a road trip across europe (2000 miles) I was having to monitor inlet temps carefully due to my perception of possibly dangerous temps.

I have a PE turbo set up (+ aquamist) on my 2003 MR2 rioadster, with 9psi peak

with air temp readings available at both the filter (MAF) and also the last bend as the forced air enters the engine.

THe after market digital temp gauge I have fitted just before the engine has a preset temp warning buzzer set at 65 deg C. I found that at constant speeds of 80-85mph on a reasonably warm but not roasting day inlet temps were reguarly setting the buzzer off. Obviously at times of boost the aquamist would kick in and drop the temps efficiently however this of course doesnt help if cruising in the outside lane with hardly any acceleration to speak of.

If any of you guys have a similar set up (no intercooler) and have a temp gauge after the turbo I was wondering if you could post what temps your reading when 'cruising' ?

I found the ambient temp didnt make a great deal of difference until the evening when the temps dropped significantly, but even then I couldnt go over about 90-95 for ten minutes at a time without the alarm going off

A friend who was also on the trip has a GT4 turbo (CS) which of course being toyotas old rally car is fully cooled via a watercooled charge cooler etc, his temp readings in general only cause him concern when he reaches 40 degC after long periods stationary in traffic etc. So for my 'two' to be 65 deg when on the move causes me concern

any guidance on example temps or safety levels would obviously be much very much appreciated.

cheers

Perry

[dsmtuned]

It might be helpful to have an exhaust gas temperature gauge in your exhaust manifold in the runner of your leanest cylinder (the one farthest from the fuel source). In the DSM community, we consider exhaust gas temperatures to be dangerous if they approach 1650*-1700*.

Do you have a knock sensor to alert you to denotation?

What kind of O2s are you seeing during cruise?

[dsmtuned]

Oh, also what was the outside temperature when you were hitting 65* C?

That is normal for me in traffic for my intake temps in the middle of summer.

You may try to make a ram-air duct and a cold air box seperating your airfilter from the rest of your engine. This will drop temps significantly. You could also wrap all of your intake and turbo piping with thermal heat-wrap.

[Richard L]

I can't remenber which system you have installed in your car.

For curising cooling, 2d can be switched on manually and it will injected a small amont of water as the duty cycle of the fuel injector during cruising is relatively small, it wouldn't consume too much water.

All you need to do is to break one of the connection to the 806-157 pressure switch.

[hotrod]

That sounds about right. I have had a simple thermometer on the outlet side of my TMIC on my WRX for a couple years now. I live at 5800 ft altitude and pulling a long uphill grade at 6000 ft ASL to 8000 ft ASL at 80 mph or so in temps of 85 -90 deg F the intercooler will hold at a case temp of 135 deg F or 57 deg C, with no water injection or intercooler spray.

Larry

[perry190]

Having spoken to other MR2/Spyder owners apparently it is common for intake temps without an IC to reach 100*C when cruising due to turbo/manifold temps raising the temp of the air charge and the 'rear engined' scenario

As this is only reduced by the aquamist when boosting I think I will be adding a charge cooler rather than switching the Aquamist on at cruising speeds. Monitoring water levels is already an added task without having to worry about using even more water whilst cruising. (good suggestion tho)

have had a rough quote of ?850 + vat to add a decent charge cooler (pace products) so will add this when funds allow

cheers for your help guys :-)

[Richard L]

One thing in your favour, water is completely free. All you need is a bigger tank.

You will be surprised how little water will be used during cruising. You can read the purple wire for fuel's injector's DC during curising. I am sure one gallon will last a full tank of fuel.

[Leon R]

Where i live (Athens Greece) I saw 75C :shock: :shock: with the stock SMIC on my Leon (outside temp was 21C) this went down to 45C with the help of a FMIC but imagine what is happening during August where temperatures climb to 35-38C :shock: :shock:

[mx5]

I can't remenber which system you have installed in your car.

For curising cooling, 2d can be switched on manually and it will injected a small amont of water as the duty cycle of the fuel injector during cruising is relatively small, it wouldn't consume too much water.

All you need to do is to break one of the connection to the 806-157 pressure switch.

Btw, we already discussed this. I tried that with 2D, but it didn't meet my expectations. At low IDC (i.e. idle or low RPM) the water jet istead of producing mist was just dripping water. So be careful when turning on the w/i while cruising - if the jet is not producing mist, the poured water might puddle, etc. bad things might happen after that.

Richard, any new solution on this? I was thinking in the future when I get an aftermarket ECU. Instead of using the air pressure switch of the 2D kit for activating the w/i to use the ECU for that. Instead of intake manifold pressure the W/I will activate when the fuel injectors IDC is above 35%.

Any comments about my plan to trigger the water injection IDC based instead of boost based? I wonder why the 2D doesn't have this option by default - since it already monitors the fuel IDC. It would have been much simpler to have some variable resistor on the 2D box to be able to adjust at what IDC to activate the W/I. Even the install would've been simpler - lack of two wires and the intake manifold pressure switch. Richard, have you done any similar experiments?

[Richard L]

The new system2e come with two dials - one adjust the triggering point 10-90% via IDC and the other alters the IDC by +/- 60%. There will still be a boost switch for safety - it will be upto the user to omit it.

HTTP://www.aquamist.co.uk/press

I replied to your pm but myreply semed to be jammed in at the outbox and wasn't sent.

[Richard L]

We are developing some flow jets ranging between 80-100cc/minute.

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/internal.JPG

These jets will have internal 25um filter, it is designed for low flow applications. You can use a low-cost inline valve 806-234 to block the main jets whilst the hsv feeds the small jet.