Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

Which diagram did you follow and did you splice the injector signal pick up wire from the ECM or from the fuel injector?

I like to check your wiring.

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

I followed the mazdaspeed3 wire diagram v3

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

Can you send a link to the v3 diagram.

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

Here's the diagram, the only thing I soldered different on controller was 3 map instead of 2 cause I'm running big turbo

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

I am confused, which part of the diagram says v3?

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

Ok so I upped my thresh and everything is working awesome, delayed the duty cycle, failsafe is tripping it's good I think

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

Thanks for the update. Sorry I couldn't help much.

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

Do you have an updated wiring diagram for the HFS4-V3.1 for a 2008 Mazdaspeed 3?

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

Reason I ask is the HFS4-v3.1 manual calls for the red, green, and blue cables where the diagram on page 1 shows red, green, and yellow cables for the RJ48 connector.

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

I think I found the answer to my own question. Looks like page 20 (in the manual) shows the correct wire layout for DI applications which uses the yellow cable.

I did have a few questions on the jumper and solder settings though.

For the jumper settings, I believe all of the settings should be set to the default setting except the SET FAIL SAFE. I will be using an external trigger with a 5-12V input, so I believe this jumper should be set to FS1. Both CLP and FS0 jumpers can be removed. I will use the orange wire on the RJ48 connector and splice it with the external trigger of the boost control device.

For the solder settings, I plan to use the following settings:
AUX INPUT: default
IDC PRE-SCALER: x2.5 for DI
MAP SENSOR TYPE: 2.5 bar MAP sensor so I believe I need to solder link 2
FLOW SENSOR MAP: I'm using a single 0.9mm jet so I need to solder pads 1 & 2
AUX INPUT SELECT: default
AUX INPUT FAILSAFE: I believe this should be W?

Are these settings correct?

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

Hi Richard L, when you have a chance can you comment?

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

All the settings are perfect. Not sure about the last question.

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

Thanks Richard L, I appreciate the feedback! Which question were you not sure about?

Oh and just to verify my thinking is correct, by soldering the W for the AUX INPUT FAILSAFE, the control will trigger a fail-safe alarm if the methanol/water mixture in the tank goes below the tank level sensor? Thanks again for the help!

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

Thank you.

You can do either one of the following or both:
W = water level led turns on gauge
F = wastegate cut

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

I think I'm confusing myself here. The AUX INPUT FAILSAFE is if I'm connecting a 3rd party signal to activate the onboard failsafe relay. I'm not using a 3rd party signal so I can keep this as the default setting.

I was under the impression that soldering the W setting would allow the water level sensor to cause a failsafe. Sorry for the mixup.

One last question for you, is there an indicator on the gauge if the control loses power? Reason I ask is I will be using the MAP Switching Channel for the fail-safe and not the Change-Over relay.

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

If there is a power failure the Map switch channel will not work. The only channel that will work under this circumstance is the failsafe relay output. Brown white and black wires from the grey harness.

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

Thanks Richard.

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

Richard,

Another question for you. In the wiring diagram you have for the 2008 Mazdaspeed 3, you have pin 1AY listed as the Fuel Injector Relay. It looks like pin 1AY is listed as "+12V from ignition switch, PJB F69, 20A" in the factory connector pinout diagram I have.

Also, for #1 Fuel Injector Coil + you have pin 2BG listed which according to the factory connector pinout diagram is "Fuel Injector #1 & #4 Common".

Finally you have #1 Fuel Injector Coil - listed as pin 2BB which is "Fuel Injector #1" according to the factory connector diagram pinout.

Can you verify the diagram you have on page 1 is correct?

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

Is there a problem with the following: ???
AFAIK, it is correct

1AY as a switched 12V source? (2BE will also work)
Injector common is 2BG
Injector common is 2BA

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

Here is the latest update for the gen2 MZ3 :

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/HFS4/wirin...ZS_2010 on.gif

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

Excellent diagram Richard. Do you happen to have the latest diagram for the gen1 MZ3?

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

I am not sure what you are looking for, any one of these?

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum2/vbu...ead.php?t=2197

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

Hi Richard,

Finally got the system up and running and ran into hopefully a small issue. I'm using an over boost fail-safe device that controls the bypass valve which I've connected to the Aquamist system using the Orange wire from the RJ48 connector.

The issue I'm seeing is the fail-safe device is constantly in a tripped state. I believe this is because the fail-safe is triggered by either a 5-12V or GND signal. After looking back through the literature, it appears that the Orange wire is either in a GND or 5-8V state... which basically means the fail-safe will always be tripped.

Should I use the Orange wire with this fail-safe and if not, is there a way to connect to only a high side or low side fail-safe signal?

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

you can invert the output signal of the orange wire by swapping FS0 to FS1.

If you want the output to be 0v/8v, you have to remove the CLP jumper. Otherwise it will be 0v/5v.

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

Thanks Richard, I've had the system setup as you described above and still a triggered state from the fail-safe.

The fail-safe will also trigger on a GND signal so will a 0V signal trigger the fail-safe?

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

If the 0V is causing the fail-safe to trigger, could I set the CLP and FS0 jumpers and solder a resistor on the output signal to drop the run state voltage below the 4.7V threshold of the fail-safe?

Or what might make more sense is to remove the CLP jumper and use a 4.3V zener diode on the output signal. I believe that would result in an approximate 3.7V reference to the fail-safe given the voltage from the Aquamist with the CLP jumper removed is approximately 8V.

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

It is completely up to make the output signal to suit your application.
The "CLP" is just a 4.7V zener diode clamp on the 8V (with 270ohm series resistor). No need to repeat. The low signal is always 0V

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

Thanks for the feedback Richard. I'm admittedly not very familiar with circuit design so I just want to make sure my thinking is correct. If I remove the CLP jumper, I will have 8V on the orange wire. If I then put a 4.3V zender diode on the Orange wire, I will have a 4.3V drop across the diode which leaves me with 3.7V at the fail-safe.

Do I need a series resistor after the diode to limit the power going to the diode, or is the current on the orange wire small enough that I don't need to worry about it?

Basically the circuit would look like:

Aquamist - Orange Wire - Zener Diode - Resistor? - FailSafe Wire - Failsafe

Or, do I simply keep the CLP jumper and just add a small 2V or so Zender diode to the Orange wire to drop the voltage below 4.7V?

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

You can put a series zener diode to drop the voltage. Why is third part system so complicated?

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

No clue. I think they tried to cover all of their bases by having two trip values but it just makes things more complicated.

Thanks for all of the help, it is very much appreciated.

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

Hi Richard,

Just a quick clarification. For the gain trimmer, counter-clockwise rotation results in a larger/steeper slope per the figure correct?

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

incorrect. it is clockwise. How did you arrive at this conclusion?

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

Hi Richard,

I interpreted the figure on page 13 of the HFS4 v 3.1 manual as CW = a decrease in slope while CCW = an increase in slope. It doesn't actually state in the description of GAIN which direction is an increase or decrease in slope.

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

You are the only person that interpreted the diagram this way. Majority of people would rotate the volume control clockwise to increase loudness on an PA system.

The manual text (v3.1) doesn't say CW or CCW on page 13. The figure is correct, but the direction of arrows does not represent the trimmers. It is related to the two slopes lines.

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

Hi Richard,

Question on the fail-safe. I've noticed on the under range setting the "B" LED will blink when the flow is below the WL setting, and then will stay on once the flow is within the fail-safe window.

However when the "B" LED is blinking, I do not see the two fail-safe activation LED's illuminate. I take it this is normal? If so, what would cause the WL setting to actually trigger both fail-safe activation LED's?

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

when the "B" LED is blinking, this is the moment the system has to decide whether to active the failsafe or not. The "FSDL" trimmer delays this decision.

When this happens, dial back the WL or WH accordingly to stop the blinking.

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

Thanks Richard. One thing I have noticed is the "B" LED can blink for a few seconds without activating the failsafe. Is this normal?

I take it activating the failsafe is not strictly based upon the amount of time the system senses it is outside the correct flow window?

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

blinking means it is on the verge of activating the failsafe. a click or so C-CW on the WL or CW on the WH trimmer will alleviate this issue. It is quite normal. It does matter how matter time it blinks. The system just reacts to the duty cycle % ratio of the blink.

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

Hi Richard,

I noticed a strange issue today while driving. The yellow "W. Injection" LED stays partially lit when there is no flow, but goes away when there is flow. The "Water Level" light does not come on at the same time and the system is not tripping when the "W. Injection" LED is on. Everything other than the LED appears to be working completely normal. Any clue what would cause this and should I be concerned?

Re: Mazdaspeed 3
 

I would't be concerned with this, it will not affect the workings of the system. A small part of the circuity is sensitive to moist air condensing on the circuit board surface.

You can send the gauge back for us to fix this, no charge but you have to pay the shipping.