#61
|
|||
|
|||
Re: Mazdaspeed 3
Excellent diagram Richard. Do you happen to have the latest diagram for the gen1 MZ3?
|
#62
|
|||
|
|||
Re: Mazdaspeed 3
I am not sure what you are looking for, any one of these?
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum2/vbu...ead.php?t=2197
__________________
Richard L aquamist technical support |
#63
|
|||
|
|||
Re: Mazdaspeed 3
Hi Richard,
Finally got the system up and running and ran into hopefully a small issue. I'm using an over boost fail-safe device that controls the bypass valve which I've connected to the Aquamist system using the Orange wire from the RJ48 connector. The issue I'm seeing is the fail-safe device is constantly in a tripped state. I believe this is because the fail-safe is triggered by either a 5-12V or GND signal. After looking back through the literature, it appears that the Orange wire is either in a GND or 5-8V state... which basically means the fail-safe will always be tripped. Should I use the Orange wire with this fail-safe and if not, is there a way to connect to only a high side or low side fail-safe signal? |
#64
|
|||
|
|||
Re: Mazdaspeed 3
you can invert the output signal of the orange wire by swapping FS0 to FS1.
If you want the output to be 0v/8v, you have to remove the CLP jumper. Otherwise it will be 0v/5v.
__________________
Richard L aquamist technical support |
#65
|
|||
|
|||
Re: Mazdaspeed 3
Thanks Richard, I've had the system setup as you described above and still a triggered state from the fail-safe.
The fail-safe will also trigger on a GND signal so will a 0V signal trigger the fail-safe? |
#66
|
|||
|
|||
Re: Mazdaspeed 3
If the 0V is causing the fail-safe to trigger, could I set the CLP and FS0 jumpers and solder a resistor on the output signal to drop the run state voltage below the 4.7V threshold of the fail-safe?
Or what might make more sense is to remove the CLP jumper and use a 4.3V zener diode on the output signal. I believe that would result in an approximate 3.7V reference to the fail-safe given the voltage from the Aquamist with the CLP jumper removed is approximately 8V. Last edited by Puddin15; 31-07-2017 at 03:52 AM. |
#67
|
|||
|
|||
Re: Mazdaspeed 3
It is completely up to make the output signal to suit your application.
The "CLP" is just a 4.7V zener diode clamp on the 8V (with 270ohm series resistor). No need to repeat. The low signal is always 0V
__________________
Richard L aquamist technical support |
#68
|
|||
|
|||
Re: Mazdaspeed 3
Thanks for the feedback Richard. I'm admittedly not very familiar with circuit design so I just want to make sure my thinking is correct. If I remove the CLP jumper, I will have 8V on the orange wire. If I then put a 4.3V zender diode on the Orange wire, I will have a 4.3V drop across the diode which leaves me with 3.7V at the fail-safe.
Do I need a series resistor after the diode to limit the power going to the diode, or is the current on the orange wire small enough that I don't need to worry about it? Basically the circuit would look like: Aquamist - Orange Wire - Zener Diode - Resistor? - FailSafe Wire - Failsafe Or, do I simply keep the CLP jumper and just add a small 2V or so Zender diode to the Orange wire to drop the voltage below 4.7V? Last edited by Puddin15; 31-07-2017 at 01:52 PM. |
#69
|
|||
|
|||
Re: Mazdaspeed 3
You can put a series zener diode to drop the voltage. Why is third part system so complicated?
__________________
Richard L aquamist technical support |
#70
|
|||
|
|||
Re: Mazdaspeed 3
Quote:
Thanks for all of the help, it is very much appreciated. |
|
|