Smart injection

[Kapt. Q]

Standard boost on the 700 fortwo is 1bar, and 1.3bar on the sportier 700cc roadster. Earlier 600cc fortwos ran higher boost, but I am not sure exactly how much, it may have been 1.5bar, I think that compared to most other types of turbo cars as delivered by the factory this is very high.

Cheers!

[Richard L]

It appears the boost did drop down to 0.5 bar when the BCV wire is cut. It is just a matter of finding correct wire so the engine will not throw a code during failsafe activation period.

Once this is wired up properly, you can use the dash gauge button as a boost controller.

[Richard L]

Wow, space is indeed a premium. I am amazed how well this car is designed. I have seem several copy cats in Italy. I try to find them and post it up.

Originally Posted by Kapt. Q

Hi Richard,

Yes it has a plug, I will check now to see what a deactivated BCV allows the engine to boost at and compare, if it is different, I'll make sure that the wire I used from the BCVis the pulsing one.

I notice that all kit components are of the highest quality, even the wire, rare to buy things these days and not find 'made in China labels' everywhere!

Here's a picture of the work yesterday. Things are tight, just to remove the airbox for injector placement required removing undertray and loosening rear subframe allowing it and the engine to drop quite a bit for clearence.



Thanks again.

Cheers!

[Richard L]

Here they are, in Florence.

[Kapt. Q]

Lol, those look more like mobility scooters on steroids.

Progress, sort of. I think I have sorted the BCV issue, but now I am having a different one!

Is the pump supposed to be completely quiet? I purged it a few times for a long time (2-3 liters), but it still makes a low clicking noise.

I have run through all the tests and it all seems to work, good mist and progressive. I installed the one pre-turbo jet only.

So I went for a road test and all seemed to be working well, intake temps definitely down some even though I am only running the one jet and the Turbo seems very lively.

Upon coming to a stop and switching the car off, the relay was stuck on and very hot, I pulled the fuse. The pump seemed quite hot too. After cooling down the relay clicked back off.

Is the pump supposed to run all the time the system is switched on?

Is one jet too restrictive for the pump? (I just wanted to add the second one after assesing the effect of the first one).

Is it just a dodgy relay or a current draw issue? (can I get one from motorfactors, et al?).

Is the pump making the slight clicking because there is still some air in it and this is causing it to draw too much power?

Cheers!

[Richard L]

The pump should only come on when the system is about to inject. Have you altered any jumper links or set the threshold trimmer?

The pump pressure can be adjusted via a 1/16" allen key at the front of the pump. Factory setting is 160 PSI at deadhead. The ticking sound is quite common on this type of pump. It has an radial offset cam. May be there are still some air in the pump head.

The pump draws about 7-8A at 160psi. 11A at 220 psi. In order to lower the current, you can reduce the pressure down by 1/2T. As you are only use a very small amount of water, you can run lower pressure and reduce the temperature.

More importantly. The pump should not stay on. Relay draws about 100mA , it does get warm over time, but not overly so.

Let me know if the system turns only with the key in the "pre-crank"key position and not
before.

[Kapt. Q]

Hi Richard, everything is as it says in the manual regarding operation of the FAV, all jumpers are in the default position. The pump runs constantly even when the FAV is not working, I did not know this was not correct because I have no experience and there is no mention in the manual regarding this. I did not adjust any trimmers because the FAV did not activate until it started to boost.
I thought the ticking was probably because it was a diaphram pump, and so it is, it is a very low clicking note and not alarming, never the less I will purge again.

The pump runs in the pre crank position.

Cheers!

[Richard L]

There are two ground wires on the power connect, please check both of them is securely grounded.

Does the pump stop running after you unplug the blue harness?

[Kapt. Q]

Hi Richard,

My mistake, the pump does NOT run on pre-crank, but as soon as the engine is turned on.

Adjusting Threshold trimmer does not stop it, even at max. (It does however adjust FAV correctly).

Changing trigger jumper to MAP also does not turn it off.

All grounds have been checked and are good (both controller grounds are fixed to the same point).

Everything seems as it should be except the pump running. All tests in the manual have been completed without problem. FIDC light flashes with engine, changing with it's speed.

I think this has damaged the relay because it now sticks untill tapped.

I can come down to you if it would help diagnose, etc.

I have hooked the other nozzle up to increase flow and help pump, lol.

Thanks for your help and patience with a W/M Injection novice!

Cheers!

[Richard L]

One more check:

Is the wire order of the blue harness R, Y, BL, BK? From the gauge cable side.

I will send you another relay today.